04-11 RX-8 RENESIS 13B BASIC ENGINE SHORTBLOCK REBUILD & REMOVE/INSTALL LABOR
- You supply your car with a rebuildable engine to me up front to be rebuilt
- You transport or pay actual shipping cost both ways
- I remove your engine from the car, then remove all the external engine accessories such as intake, wiring, sensors etc. to expose the block for rebuild as stated below. Later I reinstall external accessories correctly, resolving vacuum leaks and other previous installation and other issues. This service includes gaskets as needed, meticulous cleaning of lower intake manifold, SSV valve, and APV valves (for 6 port models) to remove carbon buildup. Also includes 3 aftermarket vacuum solenoids to eliminate CEL codes.
- Finally I will reinstall the engine, prime the oil and fuel systems, start it, adjust idle as needed, test drive (when car condition, tags/insurance permit) etc. Coolant, oil, and oil filter are included.
- Any items not supplied by me as part of the standard rebuild (below) that need replaced due to wear or maintenance can be supplied by the owner for free or cheap install during the job. Items such as clutch kit, motor mounts, belts, hoses, oil lines, etc. should be considered for maintenance replacement.
NEW PARTS & SERVICES INCLUDED IN THE ABOVE BASE PRICE (this list represents approx. $1500 retail cost in parts):
- Oem mazda apex seals
- Oem mazda corner seals
- Oem mazda corner springs
- atkins rotary side seals cut to length
- Oem mazda side springs
- Atkins rotary viton oil oring inserts
- Oem mazda inner and outer coolant seals
- Dowel pin orings, tension bolt seals, rear stationary gear o-ring, front/rear main oil seal
- Front cover gasket
- Atkins rotary thermal pellet replacement for front of e-shaft
- Main bearings
- Rotor bearings
- When rotor housings are reused, they are resurfaced. This service skims material off the top chrome sealing layer to remove light defects and improve the uniformity of the sealing surface, however it cannot repair deep wear or defects and cannot put back worn away chrome. Some other shops provide this service “out the door” for as much as $300 plus round trip shipping, it is included free in my build.
- Spark plug holes threads are cleaned and retapped. OMP injector holes are drilled to remove clogged carbon.
- The factory ~75psi oil pressure regulator snout is pressed to increase oil pressure to approx. 85-90psi. (applies to 04-08 models)
PARTS REUSED IN THE BUILD (ADDITIONAL CHARGES WILL INCREASE BUILD COST IF ORIGINALS ARE NOT REUSABLE):
- 2) rotor housings
- 2) rotors
- Eccentric shaft
- 2) stationary gears
- Front cover
- 3) iron housings/plates
- Oil pump, chain, sprockets, various small hardware
- Rotor apex short/long springs
- Rotor metal oil control scraper rings (8), cutoff rings (4), w/ springs (12)
OPTIONAL PARTS/SERVICES IF NEEDED OR DESIRED:
- New rotor housings @ prevailing current prices, approx. $1600/pair(04-08) or $1700/pair(09-11)
- New iron housings @ prevailing current prices, approx. $2000/set of 3
- New apex short/long springs $60
- New metal oil control scraper rings, cutoff rings, w/ springs $550
- New oil pump approx. $70 @ current prevailing prices
- Streetport all intake ports and exhaust ports $750
- Turnaround time 2-4 weeks depending on workload waiting ahead of you. February through May are the busiest months with increased wait time.
- If you have more than one core or parts of other cores you may bring all of them. I will tear down and inspect all cores/components and the parts left over after your build is completed can be traded in for some additional credit off your bill.
- Rotary Resurrection is located in Morristown, TN. You are welcome to deliver your car in person, or ship via auto transport service of your choosing. Since I work from home, all visits are by appointment only. Also, I have limited parking spaces for customer cars, so there may be times that I cannot accept another car due to too many cars already here. I am normally available any weekday afternoon or evening 12-7:30pm EST, or Saturday afternoon 12-2. You should ensure that your chosen auto carrier is aware of this schedule and is willing to deliver appropriately.
- Normally once I receive your engine or car, I will continue working on other jobs ahead of you until they are complete, then I will begin yours by tearing down the engine block. I take pictures of each component during disassembly and send you an email containing a link to all of these pictures along with a detailed written description. I will explain any issues, make recommendations and suggestions, and let you decide what to do should additional part replacement be required. Once these issues have been decided upon, I will proceed with the build, and again photo document the cleaned/inspected/prepared parts prior to and during assembly of the block, so that you have documentation of what you have now. Then you will have approximately 1 week to pay the balance and pick up or ship the engine back out.
- All builds are accompanied by a written 1 year unlimited mileage warranty on the labor aspect of the build only. The warranty is posted elsewhere on this site.
- My standard procedure for starting a build is as follows:
- I need all of your information including full name, street address, city/state/zip, shipping address (for truck freight, if different), phone number(s), and year/model of engine. I also need all build specs such as paint colors for the engine block (black/gunmetal is default), apex seal and porting options, and any special requests. You can send this information via email or in writing at time of dropoff.
- Payment is payable via cash, credit card in person or via internet invoice, or US post office money order made to Kevin Landers . I may take a deposit up front at dropoff depending on the nature of your build. This deposit may increase with certain build options such as more expensive seals or other components. IF applicable, the deposit amount is taken off of the total price of the build.
- A signed service contract submitted prior to or at the time of receipt/dropoff of the car, which will be sent directly to you via email after you contact me. You may print/sign/mail, print/sign/include inside the car, or I will have a copy for you to sign at dropoff. You may also print/sign/scan/email remotely, or print/sign/photograph/email the contract to me, as long as it is well lit and clearly legible with an actual signature (not just printed text).